Victoria's Secret has received a lot of backlash and investigation into this ethical issues and supply chain. As a society becoming more aware of the impact on the environment, it's important that brands step up to the issues they are creating. As fashion is the second biggest polluter of the Earth as of now, brands need to be more aware of the materials in the garments, where they are from and where they are going. I discussed in my last post the positive changes VS has made, now I take a look at the things they must change.
Main source supported by original sources all linked below:
https://guide.ethical.org.au/company/?company=4659
Supply Chains: China
Source: CITIDetail.aspx based on information found February 2018
The IPE is a quantitive resource in finding out the environmental management of their supply chains based in China. It look at their impact and water damage based on Government data, environmental audits (third party) and environmental performance in the company's supply chain.
Victoria's Secret along scored 5 out of 100 in this evaluation. The brand has failed to disclose any of their supply chains in China. They scored 2.5/10 on responsiveness to public. They said that the environmental violation issues raised will be looked at. The brand scored 0/12 on suppliers compliance and they haven't pushed suppliers to make action plans to change this. They scored 0/10 for their wastewater policy, refusing to disclose information about suppliers wastewater treatment and discharge. They scored 0/10 on identifying supplier environmental impacts. They scored 0/12 for energy as they have not set up any energy or greenhouse gas emissions reduction plans or initiatives. They scored 0/12 for pollutant reduction as they haven't set up resources usage plans or pollutant emissions reduction plans. They scored 0/8 on Green Choice promotion as they haven't promoted a green choice.
Animal Testing: https://www.mediapeta.com/peta/PDF/companiesdotest.pdf
According to the PETA's 2018 list of 'Companies that do test on Animals' Victoria's Secret are confirmed to test their products on animals at some point in the development of their products. As society is becoming more aware of this issue, they are turning away from brands that support the harming of animals for cosmetic purposes. We as the consumer have been exposed to some of the horrific condition animals go through for our products and so we are turning to more ethical brands against this. This will work against Victoria's Secret being on a trusted official PETA list, as people will think twice before purchasing from VS now.
Unethical Fabric Sourcing (Deforestation): https://www.ran.org/press-releases/the_high_cost_of_high_fashion/
https://sustainablebrands.com/read/supply-chain/new-report-exposes-human-rights-abuses-on-frontlines-of-forest-fabric-production
The Rainforest Action Network (2015) realesed a 'fashion fifteen' list of the top American brands that are contributing to deforestation, land grabbing and abusing human rights by taking away rainforest dependent communities. This statement was made,“Every year, tens of millions of trees are turned into clothing through the use of forest fabrics like rayon and viscose,” said Brihannala Morgan, Senior Forest Campaigner with Rainforest Action Network (RAN). There has been an increase in mega-plantations for producing pulp for fabrics, resulting in devastation on those dependant on rainforests to live. Indonesia is the main victim to the devastation and deforestation.
Cotton Usage: https://wwf.panda.org/wwf_news/?269811/Top-brands-failing-on-cotton-sustainability
WWF (2017) conducted research based on the 37 international major cotton users in the world and how they score in terms of social responsibility and sustainability. They found that Victoria's Secret parent company L Brands scored a poor 0.5/19.5 and was towards the bottom of the ranking list. They failed to look into all the sourcing of their fabric and had low commitment to sustainably sourcing their cotton. The report encloses that less than 1/5th of the cotton bought is sustainably bought. The report results were based on traceability, policy and actual use in products. L Brands were given a 0.5 and stated as 'not yet in the starting blocks' and proved to be way behind other brands in sustainably sourcing cotton. Other issues gaining from this problem are, water pollution, forced labour and child labour, debt for farmers, incorrect or overuse of pesticides and herbicides.
Solutions
-A policy for L Brands as a starting point to change their sourcing, it gives the company a foundation and trust for the consumer to make them trust they are heading in the correct direction
-More effort for sourcing organic cotton and making the change to help the environment and correct issues reported.
-Tracing the sourcing of materials, from the supplier right down to the worker and the conditions.
-Using Organic cotton (no pesticides) or recycled cotton pore consumer which can be taken from textile processes pre costumer and mixed with cotton on polyester and re-used
Newsweek Green Ranking Report: https://www.newsweek.com/green-rankings-2017-18/l-brands-inc
According to Newsweeks Green Ranking report, they scored L Brand 16.5% out of 100 based on the sustainability performance of the 500 biggest companies, they scored 263 out of 500. The results are based on waste, greenhouse gas damage, water waste, sustainability targets, fines and penalties etc.
Ethical Fashion Report: https://baptistworldaid.org.au/resources/2018-ethical-fashion-guide/
Baptist World aid reviews brands based on their ethical stance of today. The results of each company is decided on factors such as child labour and forced labour, looking into their suppliers (down to the raw materials), being transparent with the consumer and fighting against worker exploitation.
VS scored a poor D+ overall. They were praised on their policies however, these were not followed through in their actions. Worker empowerment being the lowest one, it highlights cases in which VS will have worked with supply chain who exploit and treat their worker unfairly. Being exposed to the internet, this will only work against VS. They have a lack in tracing their sources to the raw materials and in turn, they have been found to support worker exploitation.
RankABrand: https://www.rankabrand.org/fashion-clothing-shoes/Victoria%27s+Secret
Rank a Brand scored Victoria's Secret an E based on their sustainability. This is the lowest possible score that a brand could get. This is through unable to be transparant about their environmental policies and following through with this. The consumer is unaware of their level of traceability, carbon emissions and worker treatment by their suppliers. The site have urged consumers to not buy from VS due to this and will discourage anyone concerned about environmental impacts brands make, to buy from them.
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